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First, what is a tubular?  Unlike clincher tires that you are used to, with an open section where the tube goes, a tubular is sewed together with the tube inside.  This is why some people call these tires “sew-ups.”  These tires are glued onto the rim rather than “hooking on” like clinchers.

Now, the differences.  Clinchers are great to use because they are easy to install, easy to fix in the case of a flat tire, and relatively inexpensive.  Most clincher tires run anywhere from $25 to $55, and tubes are $4-5.  When riding, you only need to carry an extra tube or two and a way to get air into it.  Tubulars, on the other hand, are a bit more difficult to install and are more expensive, but give a better ride quality and last longer.  The typical tubular tire costs anywhere from $40 to $75, while some racing-specific tires are over $100.  When riding, you will have to carry either sealant to put in the tire, or a new tire.  This is why you see racers with a tire on their bike frame rather than just a tube.   

The advantages of tubulars are they generally last quite a bit longer than clinchers, are significantly lighter weight, can be inflated to higher pressures and offer a better ride quality.  Their tread is more durable due to their tubular construction, and they can afford to manufacture more and stronger flat protective measures into their tires.  This is not to say you won’t puncture one, but it is more difficult to do so.  In my 12 years of racing on tubulars, I’ve flatted twice.  The problem is that after a flat, the tire is finished.  (Note: there are ways to repair a tubular after a flat, but it is difficult.)  The tubular rim is constructed differently as well.  It does not need the hooking area of a clincher rim and takes 100-200grams off the rim’s weight, and a typical tubular tires weighs the same as a clincher—thus you save the weight of the tube.  The last point is that tubular tires can be inflated to much higher pressures than clinchers.  The tires I race on can be inflated to 220psi (where my clincher tires are stopped at 120psi) although unless I’m on the smoothest road I could dream of I’d never inflate them that high!  I race typically near 140psi, and at 140 they are smoother than my clinchers at 110.   

I ride clinchers for training.  They’re cheap, and I hate to throw away a $70 tire if I were to flat on one of the many thorns in Arizona’s desert.  I also prefer to ride heavy.  I ride on relatively heavy wheels with heavy-duty tubes so that when I put on the lightweight race wheels I feel like I can fly.   

I ride tubulars for racing.  My racing wheels are light, stiff and fast.  I use a lightweight but durable tubular tire, and the setup is about 600-700gms lighter than my training setup.  As I mentioned above, I will also run higher pressure on race day for lower rolling resistance and will still gain the advantage of a smooth ride.   

I hope you find this of help.  Be sure to watch Mach3 Multisport’s demo video to learn how to glue up a tubular tire.  It’s easy! 

Ride safe,

Brian